The Wheel

The Wheel of the Year encompasses the eight festivals of the Celtic and Pagan year. It begins with Samhain, the celebration of the ancestors in October/November, and ends with Mabon, the Autumnal Equinox or Harvest Home in the Northern Hemisphere. The year is a circle and also an infinite loop, and so for this my last celebratory pattern I have chosen the Möbius loop as a vehicle for a contemplative design and an adaptable accessory.

This design lends itself to three separate items of the same basic pattern: a headband, a cowl (either single- or double-wrap), and a shoulder-warming wrap in three sizes. To determine tension, I recommend making the headband in your desired yarn as your gauge swatch, before making the cowl or wrap; I found the Möbius shape to be stretchy and accommodating to many sizes, so the medium size headband actually fits a large adult head (snugly) as well as a child/teen, and uses surprisingly little yarn.

The pattern is a memorable sequence of stitches, rhythmic and contemplative. It can be knit in any weight of yarn; this pattern gives calculations for light fingering/sock, 4ply/fingering, DK, worsted, aran, and chunky weights. It uses Cat Bordhi’s Möbius cast on as its basis, and I strongly recommend watching her video for the technique.

Cat Bordhi’s Möbius cast on video tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVnTda7F2V4

See the tables below for approximate yarn requirements and the circumferences achieved for each yarn weight.

The Wheel pattern is now available in The Granary Knits pattern stores on Ravelry and Payhip.

Mabon

Mabon is the eighth and final festival in the Wheel of the Year. This year, it falls on 22nd September, and is also known as the Autumnal Equinox or Harvest Home in the Northern Hemisphere, Spring Equinox in the Southern Hemisphere. The year has almost come full circle, the second harvest has finished: apples have been picked and stored, bread baked, enjoyed and shared. The year is winding down towards winter, but there are still fine days to be celebrated. Mabon is a time of contemplation, of looking back over the year that has passed and forward to the winter that is to come.

Mabon the shawl is a semicircle of texture. The pattern is a memorable sequence of stitches, rhythmic and contemplative. It can be knit in any weight of yarn; the pattern gives calculations for 4ply/fingering, DK and worsted weights. It uses short row techniques to achieve the semicircular shape and, since the shawl is worked in wedges, these can be knit in multiple colours. The samples show parti-colour (one half in teal, one in turquoise), alternating colours (one wedge in light grey, the next in darker grey), and all wedges the same colour. A page of blank schematics is provided at the end of the pattern for you to print out and experiment with choosing and placing colours.

Four different treatments for the final unifying top edge are described.

For details of the pattern requirements, see the pattern page at either Payhip or Ravelry.

Lughnasadh

Lughnasadh is the seventh and penultimate festival in the Wheel of the Year. It falls on 1st August, and is also know as Lammas. The first harvests have been gathered in: the flax crop, the early grains, soft fruits like blackcurrants and raspberries. Time to celebrate the bounty. The year is beginning to wane, we are halfway between Litha/midsummer and Mabon/equinox. The days are still warm but shorter, evenings a little cooler.

The light fingering sample in green and gold long colour-change yarn took one 100g ball of Schoppel Wolle Zauberball, colourway Zauberwald.

Lughnasadh the shawl is an asymmetrical triangle with a memorable all-over lace pattern, knit on the bias from the pointy end, gradually increasing in width. It can be knit in any lightweight yarn, to any size, with a choice of two grounds, garter or stocking stitch/stockinette; and two cast offs, standard stretchy or crochet chain cast off.

The golden yellow sample below was knit in Eden Cottage Milburn 4ply in colourway Harvest Gold. It took 146 g / 584 m / 639 yds or just under balls of yarn.

This shawl can be made to any size. Finished sizes of the samples shown are:
Light Fingering: 226 cm/90 ½” length along longest edge x 95 cm / 38” deep at its widest point.
4ply/fingering: 248 cm/99 ¼” length along longest edge x 117 cm / 46 ¾” deep at its widest point.

This pattern has both charts and written instructions. It has been thoroughly professionally tech edited, but has not been test knit except by me. Full pattern support is available by email.

Lughnasadh is available in both the Ravelry Granary Knits Store and the Payhip Granary Knits Store.

Litha

For the Solstice Weekend, Friday 20th to Sunday 22nd June 2025, this pattern will be half-price, no code needed.

Litha (pronounced “LEE-tha” or “lith-ah”) is a pagan festival and the sixth celebration in the Wheel of the Year.

Litha the shawl is a three-quarters Pi circular shawl, knit in laceweight yarn for a light and airy layer. Despite their size the samples only weigh 136 g and 182 g (less than 5 ounces and less than 7 ounces).

Two sizes are described, approximately elbow length and wrist length on an adult. In accordance with the principles of pi shawls (as the diameter doubles, so does the circumference) this shawl has bands of pattern interspersed at set intervals with rows of increases. The increasingly wide bands of patterning include plain stocking stitch/stockinette, daisy stitch, and a field of tiny winged insects formed by simple cables. The lace edging along both sides is initially knit with the centre pattern, then curved around the front and formed into a knitted-on edge along the hem. There is a small amount of grafting to join the two edges. The shawl begins with a tab cast on, the tab being the first repeat of the lace edge; it can be knit either from the charts or from written instructions provided in a separate file.

The two samples show the two sizes described:

John Arbon Appledore Lace, elbow length: 67 cm/26 ¾” centre back neck to rounded hem x 73 cm / 29 ¼” deep at centre back.
Malabrigo Lace, wrist length: 77 cm/30 ¾” centre back neck to rounded hem x 85 cm / 34” deep at centre back.

Links to video and photo tutorials for the daisy stitch, provisional cast on and grafting are given in the pattern.

This pattern has been thoroughly professionally tech edited, but has not been test knit except by me.

This pattern is available from the Granary Knits Payhip Store and from Ravelry.

Crochet Cast-on Technique

This photo tutorial demonstrates how to cast on additional stitches at the beginning of a knitted-on lace edge, where you want a neat continuation of stitches along the side.

This technique is used in the Beltane Stole, a shawl with a slipped-stitch edge running its length on both long edges. By using the crochet cast on method, this slipped-stitch edge is maintained into the knitted-on end details.

For this cast on you will need a crochet hook the same size as your knitting needle, or a size larger, depending upon the pattern requirements. You will cast on one less than the number specified in the pattern, using the loop on the crochet hook as the last stitch.

Step 1

The shawl is ready for a knit-on edge

Step 2

Place the crochet hook through the slipped edge stitch as if to knit the stitch.

Step 3

Loop the yarn over the crochet hook and pull through, leaving the edge stitch on the knitting needle.

Step 4

Hold the crochet hook in front of the knitting needle, with the yarn behind the knitting needle, loop the yarn over the crochet hook.

Step 5

Pull the yarn through the loop on the crochet hook, forming a new chain loop on the crochet hook and one extra stitch on the knitting needle.

Step 6

Reposition the crochet hook in front of the knitting needle, and the yarn at the back of the knitting needle. Loop the yarn over the crochet hook.

Step 7

Pull through the loop on the crochet hook, forming a new crochet chain loop and a second cast on stitch on the knitting needle.

Work steps 6 and 7 until you have cast on one less than the total required.

Step 8

When you have cast on the required number of stitches, less one, place the chain loop on the crochet hook onto the knitting needle without twisting. This forms the final cast on stitch.
The three stitches cast on.
The cast on from the under side, showing the loops carrying on seamlessly from the slipped-stitch edge.
Edge view of the cast on after completing the knitted-on edge
Front view of the knitted-on edge, the cast on stitches blend seamlessly with the slipped-stitch edge.

Ostara

Ostara is the fourth festival in the Wheel of the Year. It falls on the Northern Hemisphere’s Spring Equinox, 20th March, and is also the celebration of Oestre, the goddess of fertility. Spring has arrived in the UK, leaves have appeared on many trees and shrubs, and daffodils are nodding in Spring breezes.

Ostara the shawl begins at the bottom left hand angle of a square and increases along the diagonal, the hypotenuse, with two halves of very different patterning, reflecting the equality of night and day. As it slowly grows, the leaves emerge along one edge and flowers begin to dot one half of the shawl. Folded along the centre spine it forms a warm layered shawl, opened out it becomes a lighter airy accessory for sunnier Spring days. I have chosen a lovely blend of wool and silk for this shawl, in a vibrant Spring green. Ostara can be blocked as a square, a rectangle, or a parallelogram. It can be worn in several ways: folded as a triangle along the diagonal centre stitch to show the flower side or the garter side; folded as a triangle across the diagonal to show one half flowers and one half garter; folded across the middle to make a narrower rectangle.

Ostara is an adaptable shawl, can be made to any size you choose, from a small square to a large enveloping folded triangle. Size is adjusted by repeating the main 24-row pattern; the sample shown, for instance, consists of a setup section followed by 11 repeats of the main section, and was blocked into a rectangle to give a shawl 137 cm/54 ¾” x 115 cm / 46”.

This construction lends itself readily to adaptation, and I have included, as a separate file, a lapghan pattern of the same construction but knit at a large gauge in bulky wool.

This pattern has been fully professionally tech edited, but has not been test knit except by me. Full pattern support is available by email.

Ostara is available to buy in the Granary Knits Payhip Store and Ravelry Store.

A Note about Test Knitting

You may have noticed I make a special mention on my pattern pages that the pattern has not been test knit except by myself. I wanted to explain why that is and what it means.

Just to emphasise, all my patterns, even the free ones, have been thoroughly and professionally tech edited. That is, the text and charts of each pattern have been checked by an expert for clarity, consistency, and accuracy. Sizes have been verified against the gauge, a clear consistent format has been followed, and the charts are accurate and match any written instructions given. This step takes time, is crucial, and rightly costs money. As far as I am concerned, it is the most important step in the whole process.

Ideally, after the pattern has been corrected, it should be given to real knitters who then try to follow the pattern and help the designer to iron out any unclear steps/processes. This step also takes time, effort, and yarn. I believe it should not go unrewarded. I believe a person deserves to be reimbursed for the time they have taken – some patterns could take weeks to knit, and a free pattern at the end of it is no adequate reward. But to pay each tester for each pattern would be prohibitively expensive and would drive up the cost of individual patterns.

So here we have a dilemma. How can a designer ethically and morally produce fully tested affordable knitting patterns when part of the process involves either unsustainable costs or slave labour?

I have chosen not to use testers for my patterns any more. It is a difficult decision but I believe the right one. Instead, I concentrate on rigorous tech editing and thorough test knitting on my part. For instance, for the Samhain shawl/cowl I produced 4 full size sample items in addition to the reams and reams of swatches and part samples.

As well as producing all the testing myself, I reduce the price of my patterns to reflect the fact that there has been no outside testing. For instance, most shawl patterns these days are priced at £7 to £9. I charge £5 for my shawl patterns.

I hope that this clarifies my position and reduces any doubts potential customers might have about the quality of the patterns. Full pattern support is available for all patterns via email.

Weeds 4: Poppy

Papaver rhoeas is the botanical name for this weed; common names for it include common poppy, corn poppy, corn rose, field poppy, Flanders poppy, or red poppy. It is a notable annual agricultural weed, appearing in cultivated fields during the summer all over Europe.


By Franz Eugen Köhler, Köhler’s Medizinal-Pflanzen – https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=255420

The leaves, stems and bud coverings are a blue-green, the four-petalled flowers are a rich scarlet with a purple base to each petal, and the seed capsule is an intriguing shape, a bulbous cup with a little cap to keep the rain away from the seeds and to help distribute them in the wind..

The field poppy produces an enormous amount of pollen, one of the highest pollen-producing plants in the UK, and is therefore an important food source for pollen-collecting/consuming insects, such as many species of beetle. As far as human consumption goes, the poppy’s black seeds are edible, and can be eaten either on their own or as an ingredient in bread; oil made from the seed is highly regarded in France. The petals contain a red dye which is used in some medicines and wines; in traditional folk medicine, it was used for gout, aches, and pains. The petals were used to create a syrup that was fed to children to help them sleep, although there is no opioid content.

My design for this tam ignores the beautiful but overly-familiar flower and instead uses the nodding flower buds, the seed capsules and the tiny black seeds. The wheel of the tam is a representation of the cap sheltering the seeds in their capsule. The seeds can be worked as just colour, or you can add small black beads making this an unusual and interesting tam.

The Weeds Collection can be purchased from the Granary Knits Payhip Pattern Store.

The whole Weeds collection, as well as individual patterns, is also available from Ravelry.

Weeds: 3 Wild Oats

Wild oats, (genus Avena), are a variety of tufted annual grasses of the family Poaceae, native to Eurasia and Africa. Wild oats are sometimes cut for hay, and young plants provide forage for grazing animals. All species have edible seeds, and domesticated oats (Avena sativa) are an important cereal crop in temperate climates around the world; several other species are locally important food crops. A number of wild oat species are considered weeds in agricultural fields and can be difficult to eradicate.

By Alvesgaspar – Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10353691

Wild oats are erect grasses with long flat linear leaves. The inflorescences are typically large and loose and bear minute bisexual flowers. The ovary is characteristically hairy, and some species feature long awns (bristles) on the seeds.

One of the best-known species is the common wild oat (A. fatua), which has become a common field and roadside weed; originally native to Europe and C and SW Asia, it has now spread throughout temperate regions of the world. It grows in small tufts about 0.9 to 1.2 metres (3 to 4 feet) tall. Mature spikelets are bell-shaped, with bent bristle-like projections.

Wild oats grow with abandon all over my garden, popping up in borders and vegetable beds alike. I love seeing their feathery heads dancing in a summer breeze. Some heads are long and narrow, others, where the individual seeds within the seed head have started to separate and mature, are wide and bell-shaped.

By Kurt Stueber – www.biolib.de, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=6294

As a food for humans, the seeds are particularly valuable. The seed ripens in the latter half of summer and, when harvested and dried, can be stored for several years. It has a floury texture and a mild, creamy flavour. It can be used as a staple food crop in either savoury or sweet dishes. The seed can be cooked whole, though it is more commonly ground into a flour and used as a cereal in all the ways that oats are used, especially as a porridge but also to make biscuits, sourdough bread, etc. The seed can also be sprouted and eaten raw or cooked in salads, stews, etc. Roasted, the seed can be used as a coffee substitute.

Birds love the seeds once they are ripe, my chickens can strip a plant of its seedheads in seconds.

Medicinally, it is considered a diuretic. Cosmetically, a meal made from oats can be added to bathwater or used as a facial scrub. The straw has a wide range of uses such as for bio-mass, fibre, mulch, paper-making and thatching.

My design for this tam uses several elements of the wild oat plant; the three-part seedhead on its drooping stem, the leaves, and the opening head revealing the three seeds themselves. The interlocking elements create another fortuitous motif, heart shapes in different sizes.

The Weeds Collection can be purchased from the Granary Knits Payhip Pattern Store.

Weeds: 2 Teasel

This is the second in my collection of tam patterns based around the theme of Weeds, this pattern uses three colours of Jamieson’s Spindrift yarn to create a distinctive hat.

The teasel is a fascinating plant, very well guarded by sharp spikes along stem and leaf margins, with a mass of tiny lavender-coloured flowers bursting through the seed head in bands, starting with the centre of the flower head and then moving in waves down to the base and up to the tip. They may be little flowers but they nevertheless provide abundant nectar for bees, ants, and hoverflies, and once finished flowering the goldfinches move in to feast on the seeds.

Although the teasel does not generally provide food for humans, the young leaves are edible although one must take great care to avoid the spiny, stout hairs. Teasel leaves can be consumed raw, cooked or added to a smoothie. The root can be used in a tea or for making vinegar or tinctures. The root has many health benefits as it contains inulin and a chemical that destroys the itch mite causing scabies.

It does, also, have an important place in the history of fibre. Dipsacus fullonum or Fuller’s teasel, was widely used in textile processing, providing a natural comb for cleaning, aligning and raising the nap on fabrics, particularly wool. It differs from the wild type in having stouter, somewhat recurved spines on the seed heads. The dried flower heads were attached to spindles, wheels, or cylinders, sometimes called teasel frames, to raise the nap on fabrics (or tease the fibres). By the 20th century, teasels had been largely replaced by metal cards, which can be made uniformly and do not require constant replacement as the teasel heads wear. However, some people who weave wool still prefer to use teasels for raising the nap, claiming that the result is better; in particular, if a teasel meets serious resistance in the fabric, it will break, whereas a metal tool will rip the cloth.

The brown, oval, spiky seed heads of the teasel are a familiar sight in all kinds of habitats, from grassland to waste ground, even cultivated in gardens for their use as an ornament.

The the design for this tam was inspired by the spiny bracts that guard the seed head, and the overall pattern of tiny flattened triangles seen when you look deep into the seed head.

The Weeds Collection can be purchased from the Granary Knits Payhip Pattern Store.