A Note about Test Knitting

You may have noticed I make a special mention on my pattern pages that the pattern has not been test knit except by myself. I wanted to explain why that is and what it means.

Just to emphasise, all my patterns, even the free ones, have been thoroughly and professionally tech edited. That is, the text and charts of each pattern have been checked by an expert for clarity, consistency, and accuracy. Sizes have been verified against the gauge, a clear consistent format has been followed, and the charts are accurate and match any written instructions given. This step takes time, is crucial, and rightly costs money. As far as I am concerned, it is the most important step in the whole process.

Ideally, after the pattern has been corrected, it should be given to real knitters who then try to follow the pattern and help the designer to iron out any unclear steps/processes. This step also takes time, effort, and yarn. I believe it should not go unrewarded. I believe a person deserves to be reimbursed for the time they have taken – some patterns could take weeks to knit, and a free pattern at the end of it is no adequate reward. But to pay each tester for each pattern would be prohibitively expensive and would drive up the cost of individual patterns.

So here we have a dilemma. How can a designer ethically and morally produce fully tested affordable knitting patterns when part of the process involves either unsustainable costs or slave labour?

I have chosen not to use testers for my patterns any more. It is a difficult decision but I believe the right one. Instead, I concentrate on rigorous tech editing and thorough test knitting on my part. For instance, for the Samhain shawl/cowl I produced 4 full size sample items in addition to the reams and reams of swatches and part samples.

As well as producing all the testing myself, I reduce the price of my patterns to reflect the fact that there has been no outside testing. For instance, most shawl patterns these days are priced at £7 to £9. I charge £5 for my shawl patterns.

I hope that this clarifies my position and reduces any doubts potential customers might have about the quality of the patterns. Full pattern support is available for all patterns via email.

Samhain

Samhain (pronounced Sa-win, /ˈsɑːwɪn/) is the first of the Celtic/Pagan Sabbats or festivals in the great Wheel of the Year, ever turning. It is the celebration of Autumn’s End occurring on 31 October/1 November. The veil between the worlds is thin at this time, the year is dying.

Samhain is the name of a traditional Gaelic festival held around 1 November. The name and date were adopted by Wiccans for one of their four Greater Sabbats. It closely matches Halloween (31 October) and the two festivals are intertwined. For Wiccans, Samhain is a time to celebrate the lives of those who have passed on, and it often involves paying respect to ancestors, family members, elders of the faith, friends, pets, and other loved ones who have died. Aligned with the contemporary observance of Halloween and Day of the Dead, in some traditions the spirits of the departed are invited to attend the festivities. It is seen as a festival of darkness, which is balanced at the opposite point of the Wheel by the festival of Beltane, which is celebrated as a festival of light and fertility.

Samhain is a time for bonfires, honouring the ancestors, and for contemplation when entering the quiet part of the year. A time when the earth sleeps and humans (and animals) need warmth and shelter. A snug triangular shawl or cowl will keep you warm until the year turns and the earth awakens.

My interpretation of Samhain is of simplicity. It can be made as a cowl, using a single precious skein of 4ply/fingering yarn, or as a shawl. It can be knit in any weight of yarn, and can be made as long as you wish. As befits the time of the year, it gives warmth where it is needed. I chose reds and oranges for my samples, as well as a light grey reminiscent of the mists of Autumn. It can be worn any way you like, casually tied or fastened with a favourite brooch or shawl pin.

It can be knit in any weight yarn, in any type of yarn, in one colour or two. It is a warm double-thickness fabric using an interesting construction, with a simple but effective shape.

Samhain is available as a pdf download from the Granary Knits Ravelry store and from the Payhip store.

Weeds 5: Thistle

This tam pattern is the fifth in a series inspired by the wild flowers commonly referred to as weeds. It features a design based upon the leaves, flowers and seeds of the common thistle. Seen in country verges and on wastelands all over the UK during the summer, thistles add a rich purple to their environment; their nectar feeds bees and butterflies, and their seeds contribute to feeding goldfinches in the autumn.

I have drawn inspiration from the prickly leaves, individual seeds with their tuft of white fluff, and the checker board pattern of the flower heads. Instructions are given for four sizes, small, medium narrow, medium wide, or large. The narrow and wide sizes refer to how full the tam part of the hat is. This tam is roomy and warm.

This pattern features Swiss Darning, aka Duplicate Stitch, to achieve the fluffy seed motifs.

Suggested yarns are: Jamieson’s Shetland Spindrift; 4ply; 100% wool; 116 m/ 127 yds per 25 g ball. The sample shown used 2 balls of 274 Green Mist, and less than 1 ball each of 165 Dusk, 617 Lavender, and 567 Damask.
Rowan Kidsilk Haze: lace/2ply; 70% kid mohair, 30% silk; 210 m / 230 yds per 25g / 0.88 oz ball; approx. 30 m / 33 yds in white.

Tools required: A circular needle, 40 cm / 16” (or longer if using magic loop), or a set of dpns, in the following sizes:
2.75 mm [UK/Can size 12, US size 2].
3.25 mm [UK/Can size 10, US size 3].
Stitch markers, at least 1.
Tapestry needle for weaving in ends and Swiss darning.
26 cm/10” or 28 cm / 11” plate for blocking, depending upon the size of hat (optional but highly recommended).
This pattern has been tech edited, but not test knit except by me.

All five of the patterns in the Weeds Collection are available from both Ravelry and Payhip. Other patterns in this collection: Shepherd’s Purse, Teasel, Poppy, Wild Oats

Annat Royd Shawl

Annat Royd is the third in my Yorkshire Collection of shawls and related accessories. It is a huge hug of a shawl, based on the triangular shape and knit in 4ply/fingering yarn. I chose two lovely non-superwash woolly yarns for my samples.

The first is a straightforward triangular shawl knit in Birlinn 4ply 100% wool yarn, from the beautiful island of Berneray in the Outer Hebrides. It is a robust yarn which is a joy to knit with; it gives great stitch definition, essential for all-over lace patterns such as Annat Royd. I chose the colour Haar, a pale grey flecked with darker strands, perfectly named for the sea mist rolling in from the Atlantic.

The second sample is a three-triangle shawl, which has a square profile. For this shawl, I chose the beautiful Doulton Border Leicester 100% Border Leicester 4ply yarn in the rich purple colourway, Hawnby Hill. I love this yarn, not only for its lovely stitch definition, but because the flock has a no-kill policy, meaning the sheep get to grow old and live out their lives on the farm. This is a shawl to snuggle up with on a cold winter’s evening.

The downloadable pdf pattern for Annat Royd is available from both Ravelry and the Granary Knits Payhip Store.

Making Knots

Knots as surface detail

Knots and bobbles add texture and interest to knitted garments and accessories, but there is no denying the fact that making them interrupts the flow of knitting. Bobbles, with their multi-row construction, can be such a distraction that people avoid adding them, which is a shame as they do look fabulous particularly tucked in amidst cables and other textured stitches. I find knots, however, are much easier to knit and look just as effective as bobbles, whilst taking less time to make and cause less disruption to the flow of knitting.

Knots can be made in any size, just use an odd number of stitches – 3 for small, 5 for medium, 7 for enormous (depending upon your yarn weight). They can be placed in the body of a garment or used as a type of picot along a cast off edge to add stretch and interest. Here I describe how I make the small cast off variety, followed by the larger surface detail knots. The basic principal is the same for any size of knot, edge or body.

Small Knots on a Cast Off Edge

Cast off up to the point where the small knot will be made, marked with a calabash pin. The cast off stitch on the RH needle, here, waits its turn.
Purl, knit, purl into the marked stitch (you could used k, p, k depending on the pattern, but purl first and last helps the knot to “sit” on the RS surface)
Reading from the left, pass the 2nd stitch on the RH needle over the 1st
Pass the 3rd stitch over the 1st
Pass the cast off stitch over the remaining knot stitch
The completed small edge knot, with the cast off stitches tucked behind it to enhance its prominence
The completed edge showing a small 3-stitch knot in the centre of the curved edge, flanked by two 5-stitch knots
Close-up of the small 3-stitch knot, an unobtrusive but neat detail on the edge of a cape

Large Knots as Surface Detail

Large knots add texture and interest on the surface of a garment, and I find they are easier to make than bobbles.

At the point where the knot is to be made, (purl, knit, purl, knit, purl) into the stitch designated (you could used (k, p, k, p, k) depending on the pattern, but purl first and last helps the knot to “sit” on the RS surface). Here I am working into a slipped knit stitch.
A clearer view of the five stitches in one
Reading from the left, pass the 2nd stitch on the RH needle over the 1st
Pass the 3rd stitch over the 1st
Pass the 4th stitch over the 1st
Pass the 5th and last stitch over the 1st
The completed large knot
The completed knot after working a few more rows/rounds of the fabric

The samples shown here are of the Yule cape, second in the Wheel of the Year collection of shawls and accessories. The pattern will be published in December 2024.

Samhain Increases

In the Samhain shawl/cowl pattern, two variations of the lifted increase are used to achieve invisible shaping. Normally, lifted increases are designated either left- or right-leaning; but in Samhain I have chosen a slightly different approach, and this is fully described in the pattern itself. The photo tutorial here is in support of the pattern and is not a substitute for the detailed description given in the pattern. I have named the two increases as m1k and m1p; both are shown here.

M1K

I have reached the increase marker for the i-cord edge, the last stitch I worked was a slip stitch
Lift the purl bump of the i-cord edge stitch with RH needle
Place the stitch untwisted onto the LH needle
Knit into the purl bump through the back loop

M1P

I have reached my increase marker, this time, the last stitch worked was a knit stitch

Lift the purl bump of the i-cord edge stitch with RH needle
Place the stitch onto the LH needle without twisting
Purl the stitch through the back loop
The completed purl increase

I-Cord Cast Off

I-cord makes a stretchy and effective edging to a shawl, especially when it carries on from an i-cord edge along one side of said shawl. I use this bind off in my Samhain shawl/cowl, and I like the way it curves around to blunt and shape the corner of the shawl. Samhain is a double-layered accessory and for the cast off, in order to avoid flaring, the two layers are treated as one.

This is how it is worked

Knit the first two i-cord edge stitches, slip the third i-cord edge stitch knitwise
The three i-cord edge stitches are now on the RH needle. The next stitch is a knit, so I will slip that also knitwise.
The third i-cord edge stitch and the first (knit) stitch have been knitted together through the back loop – a standard ssk
Pass the three stitches from RH to LH needle without twisting them
Knit the first two i-cord edge stitches again, slip the third knitwise, then treating the next two stitches as one unit, slip them also knitwise
Knit the three slipped stitches together through the back loop
The three stitches on the RH needle are now the i-cord cast off, and the curve of the corner is already evident
Pass the three i-cord stitches back to the LH needle
A few more stitches cast off and the corner has taken shape with a smooth curve
The end of the i-cord, the yarn has been broken and threaded through the last stitches
At the end of the i-cord, break the yarn, secure the last stitch, and thread a darning needle. Work a mock knit stitch over the corner and weave the end in to the i-cord and between the layers of the fabric.
The completed i-cord cast off

The Yorkshire Collection

For over a year now, I have been working on a collection of shawls and related accessories inspired by the Yorkshire countryside in which I live. It has been a magical experience, exploring my surroundings and being enthused by the landscape. The first two shawls in this collection, Harden Moss and Whitley Common, are available now, with more to come.

Harden Moss was inspired by the shapes of reservoirs in the High Peak District of Derbyshire and West Yorkshire. These typically have a distinct wide dam wall at one end gradually narrowing to a point, reflecting the shape of the valley that was flooded to create them. There are many such reservoirs dotted about all over the Peak District, varying in size from a small tarn to an entire rift such as Longdendale, flooded to provide water to local communities. This simple scrunchy garter shawl, worked sideways in a hazy laceweight yarn on very large needles, is quick to work, and the allover pattern of eyelets is easy to memorise. The pattern is available in the Granary Knits Payhip store and on Ravelry.

Whitley Common is a light capelet perfect for a summer wedding shawl. It’s shape is three-quarters-pi, and is covered in a graduated pattern of zigzags which mimics the many becks, streams, and rivulets that cover the heathery landscape. These lacy rivulets culminate in a border of flower motifs to represent the beautiful cotton grass that covers the common in summer. The pattern is available in the Granary Knits Payhip store and on Ravelry.

Two Free Patterns: Mittens and a Beanie

Today I have published two new free patterns. They are part of my ongoing quest to find useful things to knit from leftover sock yarn. Both can be knit in plain, self-patterning or self-striping yarns, or you can create your own unique stripes from scraps or mini-skein sets.

Fingerless Sock Yarn Mittens

These full mittens can be made in any sock yarn, leftover scraps are ideal for striping or colour blocking. It is written to fit child (8-12yrs) (teen, small adult, medium adult). Finished sizes (palm circumference) 16 (19, 21, 23.5) cm / 6½” (7 ½”, 8 ½”, 9 ½”). The samples shown are all sized for a teen/small adult. The pattern can be easily adapted to fit larger hands.

The mittens are knitted finger-tip to cuff on circular needles/DPNs, and feature a gusseted thumb and a ribbed cuff.

The samples shown were knit in West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply: Fingering/4ply; 400 m / 460 yds in 100 g / 3.53 oz; shown in Zara’s Rainbow (stripes) and Woodland Awakening (variegated); and in Debbie Bliss Rialto Luxury Sock; Fingering/4ply; 400 m / 460 yds in 100 g / 3.53 oz; shown in Coachella.

The pattern features lots of ideas for you to create unique mittens. It has been tech edited but not test knit, except by me.

The pattern is free to download from the Granary Knits Ravelry Store, and also free (with the option to pay a little if you want) from the Granary Knits Payhip Store.

Sock Yarn Beanie

This beanie can be made in any size, from newborn to adult, and is knit in the round from the crown down to the brim. There are two options for the crown: knotted I-cord or a plain flat circle; and two options for the brim, either rolled or ribbed.

The samples shown were knit in West Yorkshire Spinners Signature 4ply shown in Zara’s Rainbow (stripes); Regia 4-fadig in a discontinued self-patterning shade; A Little Bit Sheepish graduated hand-dyed mini-skein set in shades of purple.

Sizes given are for Newborn, 6 mths, Toddler/Child, Teen, Adult, Large Adult (head circumference 35 cm / 14”, 40 cm / 16”, 44.5 cm / 18”, 52 cm / 20 ¾”, 54 cm / 21 ½”, 59 cm / 22 ½”.

The pattern features lots of ideas for you to create unique beanies. It has been tech edited but not test knit, except by me.

The pattern is free to download from the Granary Knits Ravelry Store, and also free (with the option to pay a little if you want) from the Granary Knits Payhip Store.

Trellis

Inspiration for a design can strike at any time! I was watching the TV series Bones one day, when the background to the current scene suddenly struck me as more interesting than the dialogue. Two characters were holding a conversation in front of a trellis room divider. Luckily, I was watching a DVD and could pause and rewind so that I could start scribbling ideas.

And just like that, the Trellis pattern was born. Trellis is a warm and roomy tam, featuring a radiating all-over pattern of curves and straight lines. It is knit in two colours of Jamieson’s Spindrift 4ply yarn (shown here in Sky and Purple Heather).

The pattern for Trellis is available from the Granary Knits Payhip Store and from Ravelry.